Bro’s Tacos, on the corner of Morris and Ontario in Albany, is fucking great, and a welcome addition to the Capital Region’s cadre of really bitchin’ Mexicali cuisine.
Bro’s takes a welcomely artistic approach to taco production. Rather than putting the taco artists at your beck while you decide what goes best with steak and black beans, Bro’s menu consists of ten highly imaginative taco styles based around the method used to prepare the filling. And what fillings — along with the defacto ground beef and deliciously seasoned chicken, you’ve got beer battered fish and pineapple grilled shrimp. The carne asada taco is melded with pico de gallo and a sumptuous avacado lime sauce, while the citris marinated pork taco is joined by cotija cheese and a homemade pinapple lime salsa with crispy diced bits of pineapple. The flavors are well crafted — there’s just enough cilantro, nothing is super spicy, every element plays an important role, and everything tastes a little bit different.
I really enjoy this approach. Having it my way is great, but there’s something to be said about picking from a fleet of authentic, delicious combinations riding proudly atop a pair of soft, folded corn tortillas (yes, a pair — you get two per taco, a great way to avoid the stress of the inevitable tear). They’ll gladly pop the top off a sweet Mexican soda for you, something I highly suggest. If you’re eating at home, a nice bottle of cheap Gerwurtztraminer would do you as well, the only wine on the planet that tastes good along side cilantro.
Prices are fair, with tacos set at $2 and $2.50, $6 with a side of wicked good rice and beans. At heart a moderately fast takeaway joint, the interior is sparse with a counter along the wall and a single table for eat in dining, which means it’s fairly claustrophobic — if you’re having a party, you’ll want to bring those tacos home. And there’s a bench on the side of the building that lets you eat while taking in the local color of Morris Avenue.
Okay, that last bit was facetious, but what can I say? Food this good just might change a street. (****-)